Thanks EL. C&J have been my staple for more than 20 years, and I find that their 348 and 341 last feel like old friend straight our of the box. The Brannock size (heel-to-toe) will be the top parent comment. Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. . For each last, add any thoughts on fit, including ankle/shaft fit for boots. The brand focuses on doing the basics well and I recommend it to every friend of mine that wants to try goodyear welted shoes for the first time. It was snug, but not tight, and I could tell that they would fit perfectly once the sole settles. Ive read PS with some interest over the last year or so, and have enjoyed learning how to dress properly. Thanks for the response. Job done. Barrie 9.5D: Bad fit. Indeed the leather is really stiff. Also, the chunky sole and derby construction arent that suited to suits. Thats a point worth emphasising. The Alden cordovan color of the shoe is achieved by a plastic pellicule which shaves rather quickly to reveal a light brown leather underneath. Alden Van: 10D - Good fit. 9.5D heel to toe. However about 5 years ago they reached some export deals with local retailers here in Canada and is sold here for over 500, where I used to get them shipped from England for 2-300. Giro bike shoes: 45.5 EU - Great fit. Heel is kind of big for an oxford shoe it turns out, stick to a boot for this last. I suppose they get away with it because the overwhelming majority of their customers arent that knowledgeable about shoes or leather quality. The Septieme Larguer felt very similar to the Andres Sendra from what I remember. Please take a look. Alden Van (unlined shell): 10D, ended up selling before fully breaking in. When you see and feel the quality that you are getting with these shoes, Im sure that you will feel pleased with your expenses. I have to say from personal experience I found Berwick to be the most incredible value. JF main line would definitely be in Spain 1. Where would you fit in Carlos Santos? Do you not think theres some advantage to dealing directly with the maker, and perhaps an understandable desire from the maker to control some more of the customer experience? But they are still good value for money. Good arch support, toe box is low, but not too low, and just an all around comfy fit from day 1. Of course manufacturing anything is significantly cheaper in Spain than the UK so the Spanish manufacturers are off to a good start in that regard with labour costs. Im sure PS readers would disagree! Grant Stone Alexander 8.5E: hoping these fix the sizing issues.**. I think I could tell the difference between a standard C&J and EG from a distance, though I wouldnt like to put that to the test! It is something that is destroying the reputation not only for these brands but for bespoke shoes in general. AE is placed well below C&J and Carmina, lacklusterly portrayed together with cheaper brands, and tied with Loake. I recently started to be more careful about how I track my wardrobe spending. Assuming that none have cracks or discolorations, are there significant differences in how different grades of suede used for shoes wear over time? Hence, vanity wins (maybe). They can be found on many websites for less than 300( e.g. Im really tempted to name and praise (as opposed to name and shame! I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Depends on the shoe store whether they stock them though. Everything I have is at the level of Crockett & Jones Handgrade or above, and most are Edward Green. Good to have it spelt out, Michael is correct when simply paying a US retailer for a Northampton shoe, but Ive purchased over 20 pairs of English shoes and boots over the past 18 months, all directly from a myriad of U.K. retailers and stockists and in some cases, the factory directly. and maybe as far as a 37 in the Tanino, though that is a very rare size. These insoles are advanced comfort systems that are meant to keep your feet comfy and cozy all day. No worries at all, its much appreciated. The Hand-Welting construction of these shoes makes them be very good dress shoes that can fit into any wardrobe quite easily. You found 1 size in that last worked for you though? Like the arbitrary claim that the soles on English soles wear out more quickly than European ones. I havent covered Allen Edmonds in the past both because I havent had much experience of them, and because they were below the quality level we normally cover on PS hence their inclusion in this article, which was intended to round-up lots of cheaper makers. Im happy I earn enough now to not care about this market segment any longer. 1. Carminas are better than Meermin shoes today because of one major thing: Better Material Quality. For more comparison, check these pairs out:CARMINA SHOESMEERMIN SHOES. Obviously also a difference style of shoe, but those companies spend so much on marketing and sales compared to these makers, that they are inevitably worse value purely from a quality point of view. They're also very flexible to work with. Its a EEE and taller toe box with room everywhere. Whether C&J main or hand, Trickers, Alfred Sargent Exclusive, Cheaney or Carmina, Ive saved a fortune buying from the U.K. every time with no VAT, fair shipping and often times on terrific sales due to COVID and needing to move their inventory. Not only the uppers are nicer, but the full calf liners are a joy when you put them on and you walk even a bit. Id advise anyone whos a fan of RTW Northampton and Spanish shoes to go to the source and/or their stockists. I started out with Allen Edmunds because they offer reasonably priced shoes (for Americans) with decent quality. Its a solid fit. Any other top level comments will be deleted. Not a big difference though. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. In the end I find both brands run small and you rather need half a size or for Bobbies an entire size larger than what you would have with Santoni for example. At Styleforum, youll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis. Carminas are more expensive than Meermins. He knows the market back to front and is a lovely gent. In contrast, Ive always found EGs service excellent but my interactions (outside of lockdown) are entirely based on the Jermyn Street store and I cant say Ive asked for anything unusual. Foot extends past footbed on sides. Cheers, H. While I havent worn Prada or Ferragamo, I can be quite certain that they will be worse value for money than those mentioned here. White's 50/50 9D: This is now one of my best fitting lasts. This I find quite interesting, since you certainly arent the only one. Loake is not anywhere near. and the results for the money where quite good.at a distance, you could mistake them for Berluti, at 1/4 the price. If your size in a Viberg last is a bit snug I would consider sizing up for GYW. Sizing down 1 from your HTT could be tricky. There's a tiny bit more room at the ball too now. Predictably, this European company uses European sizing, which is normally a full size down from your Brannock (or "true") size. Would be an excellent fit with a wider toe box and lower instep. Berwick uses corrected grain for some of its models (this is what stopped me from buying a pair). Im afraid Im not great on recommending sizing issues like that. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. Leo 9.5E: Excellent fit with thin socks. Pretty good fit, but I need a kilty for some of the volume while new, will probably break in more and be able to be cinched down better over time. I agree that they might be a touch conservative (although they do now have more stylised lasts compared to a few years back), and that youre less likely to get more interesting leathers like museum calf or patinated. Maybe I experimented with them too early. Also Barkers at the 1880 price point are made in the UK. First impressions tell us most of what we need to know about certain products. Velasca uses a Blake/Rapid construction, so not Goodyear welted - but remember Blake/Rapid is more similar to Goodyear than it is to normal Blake. In the past, I would spend under $300 on an item without really thinking twice about it but once I started keeping track, I began to notice that all these expenditures (which were often impulse buys or prompted by sales) were adding up to several thousand dollars a year. Surprisingly minimal break-in but it's been a long time. When I complained I was told The second pair is always better ! In that regard, let me plug TLB as a particularly sound value proposition. Theyre the only pair from this collection that I got out of the box and went wow. Id love to step up to Crocketts as Ive heard great things. Normal arch/instep. spoo -- great thread idea (I'll soon add my info ). I dont think either has changed in their quality, no. May have been fine with thinner socks. Here the belittling is by Jesper, but somehow feels like follow-through of the same swing. Ive undergone a career change and offices in the US have become more and more lax about dress standards, even prior to 2020. They claim it will still last as long and that the defects are just cosmetic, but still, it may not be what you expect. So do only the toes get more room or is the hole shoe more roomier? Although Carmina shoes are more expensive than Meermin shoes, there is so much value that you can get when you make that extra investment to get them. Not sure I'd feel the same today. Might not be the same for everyone, but many who havent tried bespoke shoes would be very happy once they do, that Im quite sure off. me, Morjas and Skolyx have been better in that regard. Can I Put Birkenstocks in the Washing Machine? Ive always found the customer service at EG shocking. While a bespoke suit might of course feel a bit better in how it fits and how you can move, it isnt really more comfortable and better for the health of your body compared to a midrange full canvas suit, in the same way as bespoke shoes. Fully bespoke shoes including trial pair start from about 550 depending on the exchange rate, and they offer ready to wear / MTO lines of various grades between 65 and 450. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Noel it is precisely the point you make that has been behind my long standing decision to stay with C&J over all these years. What Id like to know is how much higher quality will the Trickers be over the Myrqvists? Both these shoes are true to size, but Carminas are however more fitting and properly sized than the Meermin shoes. So all in all a shoes that looks good, but not a feel good shoe. These are all a pretty similar level of make, though you lose a little in the raw-material quality among the cheaper ones, such as Septieme Largeur." The alternative is leather board read the rest of the article and youll see it. The question there is how long such value lasts, when the company grows or takes on new costs. TLB Mallorca: I own a wingtip on the Alan last. For me, thats the right balance: There are diminishing returns to the higher quality make you can get with more expensive manufacturers, and a lot of my enjoyment comes from having shoes that are fit for particular purposes e.g., sleeker oxfords to wear with suits and smarter trousers, chunkier brogue and split-toes for more casual outfits, rubber soles for wet weather, unlined loafers for the summer, etc. Do you think a knowledgeable observer like yourself could tell the difference in leather quality when they are being worn on someone elses feet (can you spot the difference in leather quality between CJ and EG when someone else is wearing them and your eyes are 6 plus feet away)? I guess they are really strong in the marketing department indeed. Why spend 400 retail when you can get a great pair of shoes for half that? I definitely enjoy the articles with the highest quality makes but its nice to have a change of pace as well, especially if its going to help me make a decision on something Im likely to buy. Many thanks Simon as usual for the very informative article. Side-note: >90% of the sneakers I've worn over the years have been 10D, mostly Vans growing up and later Asics. Loake make some shoes in India, 1880 range is made in UK. Truman P-79 9D: Nice fit. Never felt loose. Looking forward to this. Perhaps someone will find them useful: 1. meister Stylish Dinosaur Joined Feb 10, 2007 Messages 10,772 Reaction score 2,515 Dec 28, 2011 #9 But now I can confidently say this was the right choice and it is worth breaking that arch in to get fit and support of this level. Oak Street Bootmakers Elston 9.5D: Only tried on, seemed like a good fit, but the boots went back for a return. This is very useful, thank you. Very snug toe box, foot extends past footbed on sides; too much vertical space even with tongue pad, resulting in lots of heel slip and overlapping facings. are priced above the equivalent Allen Edmonds, usually at an Alden equivalent price. The main concern for me is finding a last shape that fits my high instep and once I find that last I stick with it. Hi Peter yes its something weve talked about regularly, and theres a dedicated page on it here. Morjas is similar in having a cleaner make, and is a touch more expensive than the other two. The nicest pair of shoes I own is a pair of JM Weston oxfords (from their main line, not the Blake line), and I have to work to tell the difference between the two (Weston has shaped heels, for example). If youre better of with 2 pairs of JC than 1 pair of JL is another question. Carmina shoes are more comfortable, flexible, and relaxing than the Meermins. Total:1,176 (members:154, guests:1,022), Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and o. I just don't love Rancourt's boot patterns and overall build. or to put it another more childish way, you started it! They look nice to me, but as I have only been buying shoes from British shoemakers, I am unsure whether their last may look showy or unusual comparison. Thank you for this listing Simon. Worn sockless. I guess I was wondering whether the differences in finer shoes were of this sort, especially because you have said before that you find your Aldens to be among your most comfortable shoes (but maybe that was more about lack of structure than anything else). Guessing I'd need 9.5D or 9EE. P-79 last 10D: Excellent fit right out of the box with thick or thin socks. **Notes about feet:** Left foot pretty much bang on 9D, right foot maybe 9.25D. Viberg 2030: 10 - Good fit. The arch is prominent, not as much as the White's Archease. I still recall trying them for the first time after having worn Carmina for some years and noticed the difference instantly. if youre going to write mean spirited attacks on someone you shouldnt be surprised that they defend themselves and reply in kind Overall, Meermins are not as good as Carminas because the Meermin shoes seem to be poorly finished when they are compared to the Carminas. For what its worth, Ive purchased more boots in the past 3 years than any other style of footwear (dress/service types of models). US size 8 at the best online prices at eBay! I absolutely could not go a half-size down. The double monks a little harder but getting there. Simon as always your articles are informative and an education. So lets see. Overall, would you have a favourite among these brands? if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[250,250],'footslide_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_6',108,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-footslide_com-medrectangle-4-0');The top-grade Shell Cordovan Leather material used to make Carmina shoes is surely one of the best in the world for dress shoes. Great stitch density and overall construction for a GYW loafer that normally runs 160 euros. Other brands in this range include Septieme Largeur, Andres Sendra and Janko. Cobbler Union (above) is a newer brand, and more similar to TLB or Carmina, while Spier & MacKay is a clothing brand with a line of shoes at 220 which is decent for the price. As been mentioned by Simon, dont see it as a complete list of brands, its just a selection of ones to highlight, theres plenty of good brands not mentioned (and plenty of less good ones as well). Viberg 2040 8.5: No variable widths for this last. However without the insert there's too much volume so now I'm shopping for a 3/4 insert to toss in them. Check the Noble Shoe eshop for several decent ones. I guess what I am saying is that depending on where youre, the good value for under certain dollar amount list will really change for you. Now use your measurement and select the size based on your foot's length (see size chart below). 4. The 5th toe of my right foot has always been mildly adducted and overlapping the 4th toe. Some can only be purchased at high upcharge compared to what they cost in Europe, while some can be bought from European retailers with free shipping, VAT deducted and no customs charge (as long as below $800) so they come out 15-20% cheaper than they cost in Europe. Youll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis fix the issues... Just an all around comfy fit from day 1 a touch more expensive than the two... At styleforum, youll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis idea! 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By commission earning affiliate links sitewide to name and praise ( as opposed to name and praise as. Including ankle/shaft fit for boots Hand-Welting construction of these shoes are more comfortable, flexible, and I tell... Mallorca: I own a wingtip on the Alan last bit more room at the level Crockett... With a wider toe box and went wow it turns out, stick to a for. Portrayed together with cheaper brands, and tied with Loake 'll soon add my info ) board. Has carmina vs meermin sizing been mildly adducted and overlapping the 4th toe major thing: better Material quality worn for... And tied with Loake good shoe box is low, but the boots went back for 3/4. Of big for an oxford shoe it turns out, stick to a boot for this last than... Info ) low, and I could tell that they would fit perfectly once the sole settles insert to in. Comparison, check these pairs out: Carmina SHOESMEERMIN shoes or is the shoe... 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The sole settles youll see it properly sized than the Meermins the best online prices at eBay tailor experience!
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